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NAI'A Log
Newsletter: Volume 7 Issue 2, October, 2000

"It was an unforgettable experience and a major highlight of my 25 years of diving. When I signed up for the project, I hoped that we would discover at least a few good dive sites. I was delighted to find that every dive was excellent. The Phoenix Islands experience exceeded my most optimistic expectations. Diving with New England Aquarium biologists greatly enriched my understanding of tropical reefs and their inhabitants. If I ever get this kind opportunity again I will grab it."
Mary -Jane Adams, Los Angeles, CA
Phoenix Rising Expedition, July 2000

Bula Vinaka! Deepest Thanks!

I realize it's a premature declaration, with three remaining months in 2000. But this year is already our biggest and best yet. And not without a bit of drama to test us!

NAI'A has performed to rigorous standards of endeavor that most diving vessels wouldn't even consider. Throughout four countries and over the open ocean between them, NAI'A has proudly sailed (sporting her new mast and stern extension) across both political borders and eco-tourism frontiers. But even hardware like NAI'A needs software to operate the system. And we are grateful to our passengers - new friends and old - for their crucial contribution to the NAI'A dream. We consider our achievements yours also.

In particular we want to thank a few very special NAI'A supporters whose sponsorship and action made this year our most successful yet in grass roots marine research. The Phoenix Rising 2000 Expedition was for a long time just another hair-brained Rob and Cat idea. That is until Arizona diver and video producer, Kandy Kendall, took a leap of faith and sponsored half the New England Aquarium scientific contingent, giving the project the green light. Bruce Thayer from Iowa, Mary-Jane Adams of California and Craig Cook of Virginia joined the Kiribati crusade enthusiastically to complete the on-board team.

Ocean exploration is neither easy nor cheap - and there are no guarantees in the divemaster briefings. But these divers were prepared to give a lot to get a little - a little adventure, a little learning and a little thrill at being the first to discover something new. As well as our astonishing Phoenix underwater experiences, we forged fine friendships amid shared passions (and rolling swells) for conservation and ecology.

Kandy and her company, Underwater Video Images, also this year sponsored our most significant whale research trip yet. In an historic adjunct to our ongoing observations, data recording and filming during the past five winters in Tonga, we completed the first survey of humpback whales in remote Niuatoputapu and around the uninhabited active volcanoes along the exposed western edge of the Tongan island chain.

After our several months away exploring Vanuatu, Kiribati and Tonga, yes, we WERE missing Fiji - our reefs remain unrivalled in breathtaking color and surprising critters. So the political coup here in May was heartbreaking in a variety of ways. Although quelled now (and with the fire-starters in jail awaiting trial) the rebellion temporarily wreaked havoc on the nation's infrastructure and has placed Fiji in a foreign diplomacy no-man's land. But it did not alter the famous welcoming spirit of the people, the safety and convenience of Fiji travel, or the tide-riding sharks of Namena!

We fielded many calls and e-mails from customers concerned about the "Fiji crisis". But in fact, the situation pertaining to the safety of tourists was grossly overblown. To all of you who trusted our judgement as "locals" and had faith in Fiji's peaceful demeanor, thank you for vacationing in NAI'A's Fiji. You now know which country has the world's friendliest roadblocks"

Cat Holloway & The NAI'A Family, Fiji Islands

CONTENTS
(click on heading for direct link to story)

Special Discounts: March 2001

Phoenix Rising 2000 Expedition Success

Search for Amelia Earhart Continues in 2001

Howard & Michele Hall Film Fiji's Coral Reefs in IMAX

Discovery Diving: NAI'A in Vanuatu

Discovery Diving: More Lau Islands

Swim with Whales in 2001

New Cruise Directors Step Aboard

NAI'A Office Becomes IATA Travel Agency

Available Dates in 2001 Fiji Itineraries

Visit us at DEMA

Compare Our Price: What Your NAI'A Charter Cost Includes

DISCOUNTS!

Due to a late change in our schedule, NAI'A is offering two new Fiji itinerary diving trip dates in March 2001at the 2000 rate!

March 3 -10, 2001
March 31 - April 10, 2001

If your preferred date is full, please ask to be waitlisted as cancellations do occur.

Contact us to book direct:

US Tel: 1-800-903-0272
Fiji Tel: + 679-450-382
Fax: + 679-450-566
E-mail: explore@naia.com.fj
PO Box 332, Pacific Harbour, Fiji Islands

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Phoenix 2000: Rising to the Challenge

Divers Discover Primal Ocean Paradise

In the most ambitious collaboration between tourists and scientists to date, divers on an unique marine research expedition with NAI'A in June and July 2000 explored the uninhabited and unknown Phoenix Islands in the Republic of Kiribati. As well as documenting pristine coral reef communities and burgeoning reef fish populations, the divers and biologists dodged the affections of dozens of sharks on every dive and discovered shorelines thick with nesting seabirds and turtles.

"It was exhilarating diving - every site a complete unknown, all of us felt truly like pioneering explorers," said Expedition Director, Cat Holloway.

"We quickly got to a point where rolling backwards into fewer than 20 close patrolling sharks meant a slow dive!"

Working with a team of four top New England Aquarium (NEAq) marine biologists, the underwater photographers, videographers, and amateur naturalists have produced this remote equatorial region's first report on marine diversity and abundance. Coral reef biologist, Dr David Obura will present the results at this year's Coral Reef Symposium in Bali. Project leaders will present a science and management plan to the Kiribati government early in 2001.

This voyage was the first in a planned series of NEAq/NAI'A Primal Ocean Project Expeditions to identify and protect the Earth's final unblemished underwater frontiers. The NEAq scientists, assisted by NAI'A expeditioners, completed biological surveys and 46 research SCUBA dives among the islands of Nikumaroro, McKean, Sydney, Canton, Enderbury, Hull and Phoenix.

"There are just a few isolated places left on this planet where we have any hope of seeing ocean environments in pre-historic rawness, free of the destruction of development and over-fishing," said NEAq Director of Conservation, Dr Gregory Stone.

"We found such a wilderness in Phoenix. But the threats to coral reefs are everywhere."

The National Geographic Society sponsored the use during this research voyage of deep-sea camera equipment pioneered by Emory Kristof. Deployed seven times to 3000 feet deep, the video camera filmed the first confirmed six-gilled sharks in the region. In fact, these sharks violently tore the baiting pole from the rig! The team also filmed the deep-sea Pacific sleeper shark in the waters around Sydney Island.

Not for the faint-hearted, the journey covered about 3000 nautical miles over 23 days - 10 of which were spent completing the two open ocean passages between Fiji and the Phoenix Islands. The project, including the scientist's berths, was sponsored by NAI'A passengers from the USA, Kandy Kendall, Bruce Thayer and Mary-Jane Adams. Joining team leader and marine mammal/deep sea specialist, Dr Gregory Stone, were coral reef ecologist Dr David Obura, ichthyologist, Dr Steven Bailey and Austen Yoshinaga covering algae, reptiles and birds. The World Wide Fund for Nature also sponsored the trip and sent Marine Conservation Officer, Sangeeta Mangubhai to assist.

NAI'A owner/cruise director Rob Barrel shot underwater footage while Australian cameraman, Alex Morrison documented topside. With more than 1000 miles between the team and even basic health services, diving and emergency medicine specialist, Dr Craig Cook was aboard to respond to injuries and emergencies. The only such case being a slash from a surgeonfish sustained by Kiribati Fisheries Department representative Tuake Teema.

For underwater photographer and veteran of 75 live-aboard diving journeys, Mary-Jane Adams, the NAI'A Phoenix Rising 2000 Expedition was an unforgettable highlight of 25 years of diving.

"It was a wonderful experience - I would go again in a minute," said Adams.

Phoenix Diving Highlights

Curious sharks throughout every dive in every direction - gray reef, black tip, white tip, silvertips (and one hammerhead) - including dozens of pups.

Thousands of mass-spawning parrotfish - and friendly mantas picking up leftover spawn!

White sandy lagoon layered with the most perfectly formed terraces of plate coral we'd ever seen - swarms of reef fish swirling through the garden

Barracuda coils, streaming trevally and hordes of buffalo parrotfish

Schooling butteflyfish, tangs, manini, wrasse grazing in herds.

Turtles - green and hawksbill.

Slopes carpeted with bubble coral. Giant and old anemones with dozens of anemonefish.

No coral bleaching! No pollution! No anchor damage! Great VIZ!

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Will Amelia Earhart PLEASE Stand Up!

Actually, even Fred Noonan would do! Yes, we're heading back in August and September 2001 to Nikumaroro with the dedicated TIGHAR folks for Expedition IIII (third one with NAI'A).

This time the singing archaeologists and courageous researchers, who have won our hearts and minds with their relentless quest to dig up Amelia Earhart's bones and aircraft, will board NAI'A in Pago Pago in American Samoa. Their loyalty to NAI'A must have something to do with us all surviving a cyclone at sea in 1997, because we are yet to discover any buried Lockheed Electra engines for them (despite our crew digging a lot of coconut crab holes!)

This new departure point means less ocean voyaging time (still three days each way) and more time at the island (three weeks). Having dived fairly extensively around Niku during our Phoenix Rising Project in July, we are VERY excited to be returning - especially since one part of TIGHAR's plan is to search for crash clues off the western edge of the barrier reef. (Hello again, you friendly manta rays and sharks!) However, there is an enormous amount of less glamorous work to be done dragging the inside lagoon if Amelia is finally going be laid to rest. Major effort will also go into excavating "7 Site" which is the most likely location of the 1940 discovery of unidentified human remains. "Wait!" you might say. Aren't these the bones with the Benedictine bottle that have added further intrigue by somehow disappearing?

If you're feeling a bit like Amelia - lost and totally confused - get the full and fascinating saga at www.tighar.org.

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IMAX AND US!

Imagine Fiji reefs - shimmering anthias clouds tumbling over the peaks of rainbow colored soft coral, teasing blue ribbon eels and startling octopus. Now imagine that scene shot on 70mm film by master wildlife cameraman, Howard Hall, and projected onto a screen 70 feet high. Captivating? We hope so. Especially for the 30 million or so people, mostly non-divers, who will see Coral Reef Adventure on IMAX screens around the world after March 2002.

Coral Reef Adventure is the third ocean-set IMAX film by award-winning MacGillivray Freeman Films (Everest, Dolphins, The Living Sea). The production company has teamed up this time with acclaimed and admired marine documentary filmmakers, Howard and Michele Hall (Secrets of the Ocean Realm) who will shoot underwater and topside in Fiji starting November 1. The Halls joined NAI'A last April to scout for the kind of stunning animal behavior sequences that have become their signature - and inspiration for marine conservation among children and adults.

NAI'A administration and operations staff will provide shore support for the IMAX film crew working throughout Fiji from Undersea Hunter - the Costa Rica-based vessel the Hall's used for the filming of their Cocos IMAX film, Island of the Sharks. And in the apprenticeship from heaven, Rob and Cat will work with the Halls' team aboard Undersea Hunter as local dive guides and general assistants during the three months of filming in November, January and March. NAI'A herself is chartered in January for the IMAX topside film crew who will capture Tavarua's famous surf as well as the village meke and sevu sevu at Gau Island that NAI'A folks know and love.

We're honored and excited to be a part of this mammoth film project and proud to show the whole world the delights of Fiji and coral reefs everywhere.

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Discovery Diving in Vanuatu

Confused about your destiny? Come to Araki Island in Vanuatu. Hike to the peak, find a leaf with excellent aerodynamic properties and throw it to the wind. If it lands in the sea you will die from drowning. If it lands on the ground you will be murdered. If it reaches the roof of a house you will die in your bed. If it lands on pandanus you will be poor. And if it lands on a Banyan you will marry, have sons and daughters and be rich.

We learned tremendous things in Vanuatu this year. How to avoid stray volcanic missiles while driving a truck at night across sand. How to shower under a waterfall while standing in ocean waves. How to make such a Godawful racket by slapping your fins that a dugong will flirt with you. How to preserve dignity while balancing on the bow of a dugout canoe as the paddling chief races fleets of children to shore. Plus, how to find the best diving in Vanuatu's unusual offshore terrain.

Our first expedition featured Paul Humann as our special guest presenter and the second and third put Stan Waterman in the spotlight. Following are a few highlights. Full story at www.naia.com.fj/research/vanuatu/vanreport.html

Tongoa Wall (Tongoa Island) was absolutely the prettiest stretch of reef with the most astonishing spread of giant black coral trees reaching farther down than even the most daring eye could see.

Outrageous critters such as the gargantuan football-sized bright yellow frogfish or the orgy of mating cuttlefish were overwhelmed by two astonishing night dive encounters. Several live nautiluses visiting the shallows at 20 feet mingled with Spanish dancers, The night dive to 130 feet on the Henry Bonneaud shipwreck made believers and mystics of even the most pragmatic and seasoned. Astronauts floating in space have nothing on the feeling of diving weightless (torches off) amid thousands of pulsing flashlight fish.

The President Coolidge shipwreck was stupendous. Some took to the deep penetration journeys and long decompression stops. Others explored outside the wreck and spent more time fooling around with Boris the grouper, the pett-able moray eels and the infinite macro critters at the "Coral Garden" including ghost pipefish, baby crocodilefish, leaf scorpionfish, twin-spot gobies, bizarre nudibranchs and all manner of shrimp. This place is not only an oasis for fish and invertebrates it's a veritable zoo!

We also filmed the historic reattachment inside the ship of "The Lady" just two months after her fall from grace. See the press release at www.naia.com.fj/research/vanlady.html.

NAI'A's 2000 Vanuatu season was a pioneering success inspiring plans to someday return. However, our 2001 calendar is already full of regular Fiji charters and special expeditions. Instead we have put together a Vanuatu land-based diving package in conjunction with Aquamarine Diving in Santo. This package is available as an add-on to your NAI'A trip or entirely independent of it.

Kevin and Mayumi Green of Aquamarine are Vanuatu's top dive guides and local experts on the gargantuan President Coolidge shipwreck. They, and their staff, can lead you into the most famous and least explored corners of the wreck - all the while painting a picture of the war and social history surrounding the ship's sinking.

For details of our Dive Vanuatu package, go to www.naia.com.fj/research/vanuatu.html.

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LAU ISLANDS

Continuing our exploration of the vast remote Lau region of Fiji, NAI'A completed her 13th expedition to these outer islands. This time, on a 14-day itinerary in September with Stan Waterman as our special guest, we reached the northern atolls of Qelelevu and Nanuku. Both had been on our diving wish list for many years and even relentlessly strong winds could not distract our adventurous passengers from the goal to explore new territories. Journeying on northeast from Namena and Taveuni's Somo Somo Straits, we did find a couple of very good sites, some promising barrier reef channels and some clear water. But overall, this part of Lau did not come close to Lomaiviti (Central Fiji) in sheer density of fish, invertebrates and colorful coral cover.

Lau remains alluring in its isolation and in the idyllic topside beauty of its coral atolls. There are still corners of Fiji out there that are yet to be entered in our ship's log.

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TONGA 2001 - WHALES, VOLCANOES AND CORAL REEFS

"Thanks for the great whale encounters and the super dives in Fiji - Nigali Passage and E-6 are still my favorites. And thanks for pampering us thoroughly with the meals, the wine, the good company, the village visit and the attention to all the little details that make such a difference. We appreciate what a great crew you have."
Tom & Joan Wilson, Princeton, NJ
Tonga to Fiji Expedition, September 2000

Our nine-day itineraries for 2000 sailing in Tonga among humpback whales provided our best close encounters yet. If you are yet to experience the overwhelming rush of excitement and awe from swimming with these magnificent giants, sign up for one of our journeys through the volcanoes and atolls of Tonga's Ha'apai Islands.
July 23 - August 1, 2001
August 2 - 11, 2001
August 13 - 22, 2001

Each day offers scuba diving and snorkeling as well as whale watching from the NAI'A deck as well as in-water encounters (whenever possible!). Ha'apai's classic tropical coral islands are also ideal for beach-combing or hiking.

NAI'A's humpback whale season next year is shorter than usual due to the special TIGHAR charter to search for Amelia Earhart's remains on Nikumaroro. Remaining space on these dates is scarce. Contact us immediately to reserve a berth.

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STUART & HELEN: PRO-DIVERS & ECOLOGIST

Some of you already know Stuart Gow and Helen Sykes from the NAI'A trips they hosted this year. This dynamic British duo (Helen is English and Stuart hails from Scotland) worked as dive staff trainers and relief resort managers at several of Fiji's top destinations before signing on as NAI'A crew. Prior to Fiji, the couple ran dive operations in the Caribbean and Central America. We are thrilled to have them back aboard as Cruise Directors on many trips in the coming months while Rob and Cat are on IMAX duty.

Stuart and Helen's personal interests and qualifications mesh beautifully with the needs of NAI'A and her guests. We first discovered Stuart's diverse engineering and organizational skills during our engine crisis two years ago. He then relieved Todd in the Operations Manager role for a spell this year. Helen's background is in marine biology. Only her vigorous enthusiasm matches her knowledge of species and behaviors. She intends to begin studying for a Masters Degree at the University of South Pacific in Fiji in 2001. Already both are closely involved with marine education and coral reef monitoring programs throughout the country, including at NAI'A sites. NAI'A reaches important offshore reefs that no one, other than our crew and divers, watches or documents.

Stuart and Helen didn't learn to dive yesterday either! Both are Master Scuba Diver Trainers with an array of teaching specialties. They hold various dive-training certifications with PADI, NAUI, SSI, BSAC and CMAS as well as Nitrox and Rebreather Instructor certifications with TDI and ANDI plus DAN Oygen Provider and Nitrox Gas Blender/Service Technician qualifications.

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BOOK ALL YOUR TRAVEL HERE

The NAI'A office has expanded to become your one-stop international travel shop - able to book all air, diving, accommodation and add-ons to Fiji and the South Pacific. IATA certified, Pacific Islands Travel Agency aims to provide travelers to this region with the best prices and the most reliable local advice. Our Travel Consultant, Herb Marlow, along with Travel and Promotions Coordinator, Lisa Dunlop, have an intimate knowledge of services and destinations and access to great deals - particularly in Fiji, Tonga and Vanuatu. PITA evolved from the growing need among NAI'A passengers for a complete and easy Fiji-based travel service. But we now ticket international airfares and recommend or book resorts for anyone, divers or otherwise, traveling from any country of the world. travel@is.com.fj or www.pacificislandstravel.com.fj.

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2001 SPACE AVAILABLE: NAI'A - FIJI FAVORITES

Some berths are still open on the following dates for diving throughout NAI'A's famously lavish and varied Lomaiviti region.
Feb 17 - 27
March 3 - 10 (at 2000 rate)
March 31 - April 10 (at 2000 rate)
April 14 - 21
April 21 - 28
May 5 - 15
June 9 - 19
June 23 - 30
June 30 - July 14
Bligh Water continues to reveal new (as yet unnamed) treasures to add to our latest famous sites: Ravai's Wives, Cat's Meow, Rob's Knobs and the NAI'A Fly'a. Nigali's sharks and schooling fish remain beloved - as do Wakaya's strange macro creatures. But Mount Mutiny's walls are blooming so beautifully that its popularity is threatening our customary classic sea-mount, E6. Ten-day itineraries take in Namena and her vibrant barrier reefs and passages.

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SAY BULA AT DEMA

If you're in New Orleans for DEMA from January 24-27, drop by the NAI'A oasis and say Bula to Alexx, Todd and Lisa. We're at Booth # 828 within the South Pacific Village at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Centre. If we're not on duty, check the nearest oyster bar or jazz club.

COMPARE OUR PRICE

As well as considering the quality of facilities and service when you are choosing a live-aboard-diving vacation, be careful of the hidden extra costs that some live-aboard charter rates do not include. And ask about the number of days of diving actually offered.

HERE'S WHAT YOUR NAI'A RATE COVERS:

• Costs quoted here are USD for standard 2001 & 2002 charters in Fiji. But inclusions apply to all NAI'A itineraries.
• Returning passengers are each eligible for a $200 discount from the standard charter cost. Non-divers also get $100 off the full price.

Extras
E6 processing, trip video, SCUBA gear and photo/video equipment hire, souvenirs, alcohol (except house wine), Nitrox, Nitrox Diver and other certification courses, crew gratuities.

PLEASE NOTE

Unlike many live-aboards, NAI'A does offer scheduled and guided diving throughout the final full day on board (excluding night dive). And at some of our best sites too! So, if you wish to make full use of your available diving time aboard, please be sure that you do not book onward flights on the same morning that you disembark from NAI'A. For our multi-day repetitive diving profiles, we recommend the 24-hour no-fly limit for assured safety.