We were diving in Nigali Pass that day, a cut in the reef near the southern tip of Gau, a remote island off the eastern coast of Fiji's Vita Levu. This area is ordinarily in accessible but this was no ordinary journey, we had been transported to this magical place by NAI'A a 110 foot luxury motor-sailor, costume designed to provide easy access to Fiji's most obscure and exciting dive spots.
One thing I've found to be true over the years in virtually all destinations is, the farther you go the better the diving. Fiji is no exception. There are dozens of reefs, easily accessed from Fiji's land based resorts, that rank among the finest in the world, But, if you want to play with big fish and see reefs that are better than the best, you have to go a little farther. The easiest way to do this is on a live-aboard.
NAI'A began operating in Fiji last summer, following extensive surgery and reconstruction. After spending more than a decade working in the Caribbean, she was purchased by the Hana NAI'A Project in July of 1992, stripped bare to the hull and rebuilt to standards far surpassing those of most live-aboards. NAI'A was designed for divers and outfitted to provide maximum comfort on long range cruises for up to 18 guests in 9 spacious cabins, all furnished with air-conditioning and private facilities.
The most striking addition to NAI'A is her new 100 foot, state of the art, rotating airfoil wingmast, the largest composite timber wing spar ever built, designed for maximum efficiency and comfort at sea. "The mast is but the most obvious of NAI'A's eco-friendly innovations," boasted Rob Barrel, Naia's director and chief designer. He went on to explain that the ship's mechanical systems were "designed for efficiency rather than brut strength," featuring a hot water system that recovers waste heat from the generator and a chilled water air-conditioning unit, the most efficient system available.
Being the visually oriented person that I am, it was NAI'A's gorgeous interior that caught my attention. The most impressive was the exquisite cabinetry and furniture in the main salon and passenger cabins. All were custom designed by Rob and sculpted from magnificent Fijian hardwoods by local craftsmen.
Built as an exploratory ship, NAI'A has a cruising range of 6,000 miles under power and virtually unlimited sailing capabilities. Equipped with a fully battened mainsail and relatively small jib, NAI'A sails at an average speed of 9 to 1 1 knots, 1 5 in ideal conditions. To maximize dive time, NAI'A motors between dive sites during the day, using sails at night and on longer crossings.
NAI'A was designed by famed luxury yacht designer William devries Lentsch and constructed in Holland in 1979. With the exception of the hull, she is now a very different ship. Her present condition and purpose originated in the mind of Rob Barrel under the guise of a thesis, written while attending the University of California in Santa Cruz.
Rob started out at Harvard studying pre-law. He abandoned his studies after two years to hitch hike around the world on sailboats, a detour that lasted more than 1 1 years. During this time Rob worked steadily, captaining luxury yachts around the Pacific. This job gave him the opportunity to spend hundreds of hours interacting with dolphins and whales in the wild. These encounters fostered a desire to learn more about these fascinating creatures, leading Rob back to the university, this time in Santa Cruz, to study with prominent dolphin biologist, Dr. Ken Norris. In his final dissertation, Rob proposed studying dolphins and whales in the same manner in which anthropologists study humans and apes. NAI'A (which means dolphin in Hawaiian) was the fictitious boat he proposed to use. From this concept, the Hana NAI'A Project was born and, with the help of Colby Jones, Rob's partner, NAI'A was created.
Rob's original vision was to create a research vessel from which both visiting scientists and interested observers could study and interact with dolphins in the wild. Since its inception, the scope of the project has grown into a more extensive study of Fiji's complex marine environment. The Hana NAI'A Project works with scientists at the University of the South Pacific, in Suva, utilizing film, video and computer technology to document the presence and habits of Fiji's marine community. The project is beginning as a baseline study with an unlimited potential for expansion.
Rob incorporated dive charters into the project with the hope of enticing NAI'A's guests to participate. He feels most divers are intelligent observers and thinks their insight and observations are valuable contributions to the project. NAI'A's on going research in no way interferes with the dive schedule. For those interested, the Hana NAI'A Project offers the opportunity to share information and learn more about the sea-a unique educational twist to what would be an in credible journey in any case, .
Guests board NAI'A in Pacific Harbor, a pleasant hour and a halt taxi ride from Fiji's International airport in Nadi. Seven and ten day charters are offered. The first stop is usually Beqa Lagoon. NAI'A can reach the first dive site in a little more than an hour, making it possible for divers to be in the water before noon the day they arrive.
NAI'A's schedule is flexible and destinations are chosen according to current weather conditions. The overall itinerary includes Vatulele and Cakaulekaleka to the south of Beqa, and the remote islands off the east coast of Viti Levu, including Gau, Wakaya, Makogai and Motoriki. When the seas are calm, NAI'A heads to Namena Island, south of Vanua Leva. Namena is considered by many (including me) to have some of the most spectacular soft coral reefs in the world. NAI'A's future plans include extensive exploration of the Lau Group, an expansive grouping of islands lying approximately 1 00 miles to the east of Viti Levu.
Underwater, expect to be blown away. Every soft coral fantasy you've ever had will be lived out in vivid color, complete with dancing clouds of violet and orange Fairy Basslets, and a dazzling assortment of colorful tropicals. As far as big fish, it's possible to see just about anything, the outer islands are magnets for Fiji's larger sea creatures.
Beqa Lagoon, still one of my favorites, has more than a dozen spectacular soft coral masterpieces. One of the prettiest reefs is called Salad Bowl. There're several gorgeous archways dripping with corals, massive golden seafans and tons of fish.
Wakaya has several excellent spots, the first being Wakaya Channel. This is a likely place to spot big fish and we encountered enormous schools of tuna, Barracuda, jacks and Hammerheads. There's a forest of Black Coral outside the channel that is infested with Lionfish. The main attraction at Wakaya, however, is a sensational Yellow Wall, blanketed with a thick layer of golden soft corals. This wall is about ten times the size of Kadavu's celebrated wall of the same name, Namena has it all-amazing soft coral displays, a spectacular wall and an abundance of pelagic life. The most dramatic site is called Grand Central Station. You can go off and explore or just sit and watch the parade of marine life go by.
My personal favorite is Gau, site of the incredible jack encounter recited at the beginning of this article. We did Nigali Pass several times and each dive was better than the one before. I can honestly say, it is the best big fish dive I've ever experienced in Fiji-snappers, jacks, Barracuda, Bronze Whalers, Blacktip Reef Sharks, you name it and you'll probably see it!
NAI'A typically anchors close to the sites and divers are transported to the reefs by skiff. There are four dives scheduled each day, including a night dive, but boats are always available, so you can essentially get in as much diving as the tables or your computer allow. As on all live-aboards, computers are highly recommended.
NAI'A was designed for serious divers and photographers. The spacious dive deck is furnished with bench seating, storage baskets for gear and hangers for wetsuits. After setting up your gear on arrival, you need only worry about your mask, fins, weightbelt and cameras, All else will be capably handled and accounted for by Jay, Iliesa (a.k.a. Fiji Bear) and the rest of NAI'A's crew.
An enclosed camera room with tiered and charging station (110 and 220 volts) for strobes and batteries is adjacent to the dive deck. There are two large freshwater dip tanks nearby. Daily E-6 slide processing is available as well as a slide projector, screen and light box. Videographers can take a look at their work on the multi-system Sony monitor in the main salon.
Owing to scheduling problems I was unable to sail with NAI'A when I first saw the ship. I was however, treated to a lunch that I still fantasize about-"prawns beurre blanc." I left wondering if this meal was typical of what was served on a normal charter. Last month I found out- it gets even better. Manasa, NAI'A's chef, is absolutely amazing. He somehow manages to concoct new and delectable creations daily, making each day a new adventure in dining.
Jay Auborn, NAI'A's cruise director, doubles as a master pastry chef. In a former life Jay and his wife owned a bakery. In his present life he prepares desserts on the NAI'A that are absolutely awesome.
Even I'll admit that there is more to life than diving, especially in Fiji. One of the highlights of a trip on the NAI'A is the visit to the local village. Guests gather with locals for a Fijian party called a Meke. There is dancing, singing and plenty of kava, the odd tasting Fijian drink made from the roots of a pepper plant.
NAI'A has it all- a great crew, delectable food, comfortable accommodations and extraordinary diving. It just doesn't get any better!