We all listened intently as Jay, our dive master, gleefully described his good fortune. "Andrea had tagged along while I helped Britta complete some basic open water skills. Once finished, we decided to spend our remaining bottom time on the open sandy expanse where the vast numbers of barracuda and silvery jacks congregate. At seventy feet, all three of us settled on the bottom to watch the passing parade of schooling fish. Suddenly, I noticed a huge dark shadow approaching. As it came closer, I knew that it was a whale shark. When the leviathan was just over our heads, it turned full circle and swam back in the same direction from whence it came. But, that's only the half of it. Two hammerhead sharks were trailing lazily behind it. It was thrilling beyond belief!"
Some people may think that 'close' only counts when playing horseshoes or throwing hand grenades. However, considering that this all happened during Britta Jarchow's fifth ocean dive did not make my not seeing the whale shark seem any more bearable. Oh well, I guess I can always take some comfort in the fact that my underwater camera system was equipped with a macro lens at the time. Still, what I would have given to shoot some amazing close-ups of that whale shark's spotty backside.
We were out diving with Fiji's newest luxury live-aboard NAI'A. Custom-built for divers, the impressive NAI'A is a 120 foot steel- hulled motor sailor. Offering either seven or ten day cruises, the NAI'A (which is a Hawaiian name meaning dolphin) has nine private air-conditioned staterooms that include a private shower, sink, toilet, and ample lounging space. The spacious main salon is finished in select Fijian hardwoods and is divided into a dining area and separate lounge that doubles as a theater for viewing slides and videos. Forward of the salon is the dive deck, a huge area open to sea breezes but sheltered from the rain. Right next to the dive deck is a dedicated camera room with tiered shelves where photographers can safely stow, service, or charge their camera gear. Onboard E-6 film processing is also available.
As many as 13 crew members are onboard to cater to your every whim, a significantly high ratio for a vessel that can carry up to 18 guests. Manasa, NAI'A's chef, continually whipped together exquisite mouth-watering meals that would rival those served in many of the world's finest restaurants. The multi-talented Jay Auburn, NAI'A's cruise director and budding whale shark authority, also assumes the role of master pastry chef and personally prepared evening desserts that are to die for. Guests should not be surprised to learn that Jay, and his wife Annie, owned and operated a bakery back in the USA.
NAI'A's managing director, Rob Barrel, is an experienced mariner who has sailed extensively throughout the Pacific Ocean. He is clearly a man with a mission. Together with his partner, Colby Jones, Rob founded the Hana NAI'A Project which works in cooperation with marine biologists at the University of the South Pacific. The research centers on studying the intricacies of Fiji's marine environment. This in no way infringes on the diving experience, as Rob believes that the observations made by divers are integral to the ongoing explorations.
One of the prime advantages of diving from a live-aboard is that the itinerary is flexible depending on the weather, tides, and the specific whims of the passengers. Bringing divers to infrequently explored areas, the NAI'A travels a circuitous route through Fiji's central island group, the Lomaiviti Group, and special trips to the remote Lau Group. The vessel routinely anchors close to the dive sites and deploys two dive skiffs to shuttle divers in and out of the water. A typical diving day includes four scheduled dives, including a dusk dive. However, guests are always free to submerge themselves as much as they want. Given the propensity of most diving "die-hards" to squeeze in the maximum number of dives possible, the NAI'A recommends and even encourages the use of dive computers. These can be rented onboard.
Among the many diving highlights during our cruise was Beqa Lagoon, an immensely popular diving area that alone is worthy of Fiji's claim to fame as being the "Soft Coral Capital of the World." Water clarity in the lagoon often exceeds 50 metres (150 feet). Mesmerizing is the word that best described Beqa's brilliant soft coral gardens. Lionfish and other exotic tropicals were seen on just about every other bommie. Clownfish with their requisite anemones were plentiful, as were the seemingly infinite clouds of orange and purple anthias (fairy basslets).
Off the southern tip of Gau, Fiji's fifth largest island, we spent several days at Nigali Passage. Pelagic fish seem to be magnetically drawn to this narrow cut in the barrier reef. We plunged through large silvery schools of jacks, snappers and barracuda. Bronze whalers and blacktip reef sharks hung off in the distance, and occasionally swum in close to satisfy their curiosity. Manta rays sometimes make an appearance. Yet the Nigali's star performer has to be Ira, a rather corpulent potato cod. Ira is more like an unofficial mascot really, as he tends to greet and follow divers on almost every dive.
At Wakaya, we dived at Cathy's Arch. We descended into a large cave that opened out onto a steep wall where we happened upon a sleeping zebra shark on a ledge at 90 feet. I only had time to squeeze off one quick exposure before it lifted off the bottom to disappear over the drop-off. Wakaya Wall offered up some blue ribbon eels, black coral trees, dogtooth tuna, decorated gobies and a hammerhead.
Grand Central Station is one of the top dive spots in all of Fiji. Situated near the secluded island of Namena, this untouched site earns its name from the flurry of fish activity that takes place. This is one site that has it all. Dramatic underwater scenery, brilliant soft corals, fiery red whip corals, feathery crinoids, a steep wall, countless reef tropicals, large pelagics, whitetip sharks, and if the Fijian gods have smiled upon you you might meet with a whale shark that's being shadowed by two hammerheads.
Night diving here was no less spectacular. A giant green sea turtle literally bumped into me during my first nocturnal foray. Jay Auburn, who is also an avid underwater photographer and keen observer of marine life, showed me how to find the tiny cowries that are sometimes seen on red soft coral branches. I never even knew these tiny critters existed until Jay turned me on to them.
Straddling the International Date Line, the Fijian archipelago comprises some 300 islands and atolls scattered across 200,000 square miles of ocean. Fiji's rainbow reefs are renowned for their wonderfully pristine, flowering soft corals, large branching fan corals, schooling pelagics, thousands of bright tropicals, towering bommies, barrier reefs, precipitous drop-offs and offshore pinnacles. A vast collection of these incredibly varied reefs still remains largely unexplored. When compared to other exotic dive destinations, another of Fiji's great virtues is that it takes approximately 12 hours to get there from North America's West Coast.
Historians believe these verdant islands have been inhabited for more than 3,000 years. As recently as 100 years ago, they were known far and wide as the "Cannibal Isles". A grisly epithet that alludes to the Fijian warrior's notoriety for eating their captured enemies. Much of this ancient history is faithfully recreated for tourists at the Pacific Harbour Cultural Centre, home to Fiji's National Dance Theater. Here Fijian men and women stage well-produced shows daily, that include firewalking displays and traditional dance. A definite must see if you're in the vicinity.
Fiji has just about everything a diver could look for in a world-class diving destination. My wife and I both agree that this was a fantastic voyage. Even as we were waiting for a skiff to take us ashore at the end of our cruise, some of the NAI'A's crew and family had assembled on the bow for an impromptu sing-along. A local singer who performs at the restaurant across the bay had come aboard to party with his friends. Of course, the departing guests were also welcomed forward and invited to join in and drink some kava, a mildly narcotic libation made from the pulverized root of a pepper plant.
While strumming an acoustic guitar, the singer crooned a heartfelt rendition of "Beautiful Fiji". As the lilting refrain of what was to be our farewell song echoed across the water, I took one last look at the smiling faces I had come to know over the past ten days. "Fiji is indeed a beautiful place," I thought. But no less beautiful were the breathtaking adventures and new friends we discovered here while traveling aboard the NAI'A. Contact The Hana NAI'A Project, PO Box 3179, Lami, Fiji Islands (679)450382 or fax (679)450566. In US and Canada (800)615-3175.
Jett and Rita Britnell wish to thank the NAI'A and her crew for their genuine hospitality, as well as the Pacific Harbour Cultural Centre and their performers.
FIJI FACTS
Entry requirements: Canadians and Americans need a passport valid for more than three months from date of entry. Visas are granted at the airport on arrival for a stay of four months.
Climate: Fiji enjoys a warm and pleasant tropical climate without extremes of hot and cold. There is a mild dry season from May to October with slightly higher temperatures November to May.
Best diving months: April, May, November (Dec.-March is rainy/hurricane season).
Language: English is the official language. Fijian and Hindustani are spoken as well.
Electrical voltage: 240 volts, 60 cycles (need transformer).
Health: Fiji is free from tropical diseases including malaria. Drinking water is safe in all cities, resorts and urban areas.
Departure tax: $10 Fijian dollars, (children under 16 exempt).
Currency: Fiji dollars. International credit cards are widely accepted.
Tipping: Tipping is not expected but visitors may give a gratuity for excellent service to the employees' Christmas fund.